Top 10 things to do in Mitzpe Ramon

Mitzpe Ramon

Mitzpe Ramon used to be the kind of town young people leave at the first opportunity.  It was conceived by central planning (soviet style) in the 1950’s and built in the middle of nowhere. Initially it served as a base for mining companies,

and Moroccan immigrants were brought in to work in the mines.  The mines failed, there was talk of closing the town down but the immigrants had nowhere else to go so the town clung on, it was a depressing affair.

In the 1970’s the central planners turned their attention back to Mitzpe and in pure desperation created a zone for light industry. Ten years later row upon row of empty hangars.  In the 1980’s, again clutching at straws, they renamed the derelict industrial zone ‘The Spice Route Quarter’ ostensibly for artists. A few artists and small businesses came but vibrant it wasn’t.

What no one noticed in the 1950’s was that Mitzpe Ramon was located on the rim of a geological marvel, in fact a rather large one, the biggest of its kind in the world. Deserts were distinctly unfashionable in those days but by the late 1980’s people started noticing this patch of desert known as Makhtesh Ramon. One or two Jeep companies were established for desert tourism, the earliest flicker of interest, here and there successful small businesses took root.

The turnaround in the fortunes of Mitzpe dates from the arrival of a visionary English hotelier called David Lewis in the early 1990’s.  He invested in the town but his ambition was to build a five star hotel on the edge of town looking down into the makhtesh.  I was living in Mitzpe at the time and we all thought he was mad. In the first place the ‘greens’ would never permit construction on the edge of a nature reserve, and even if they did permit it, no one would actually pay to stay in a five star hotel in Mitzpe bloody Ramon. Lewis persevered and the hotel was completed in 2012.  It is one of the most expensive hotel in Israel, if not the most. It is beautiful, it is designed to not interfere with the natural lines of the Mathtesh and in 2018 it has had an occupancy rate of 97%, one of the highest in Israel.

The psychological impact Beresheet hotel has had on the town cannot be overestimated. There was a political upheaval; the old guard was kicked out and a young mayor with new ideas was voted in. Money was invested in the Spice Route Quarter, a number of Tel Aviv companies relocated to Mitzpe, real estate values doubled and doubled again.  Now there is a plan (not the central planners this time) to build a complex of luxury hotels with all the supporting facilities on the opposite edge of town.

The odd thing about this uplifting tale is that with all this excitement and investment and optimism the town itself still has the feel of a desert mining town and I like it that way.  It is sleepy, a tad neglected and slightly dysfunctional and if you don’t delay too long that is how you will find it.

Things to do in Mitzpe Ramon

1. The Albert Promenade

2. At the right time and with the right weather conditions this is beyond spectacular.  Starting out from the field school it is a three kilometer walk with a number of points of interest over your left shoulder, and a technicolor jaw-dropper over your right.

1. 2. Inside the Makhtesh on foot

2. From above it looks flat and empty but once you are down in it there are mountains and wadis, you can get lost with absolutely no difficulty (it is about 60 square kilometers), among them Mount Ardon.  Six hikes of varying length and difficulty, Bedouin hospitality somewhere in the middle. Borot Lotz, and Mount Ramon on the side of the crater are also a classic hike of the area.

1. 3. Inside the Makhtesh by jeep

   If you really want to explore the makhtesh it is best done by jeep (or quad) with a guide who will show you stuff you would never find on your own.

   4. Cycling the Makhtesh

   There is a bike trail that descends from the Albert Promenade into the makhtesh, the Israel Bike Trail runs through the makhtesh (you can cycle from Mitzpe Ramon to Eilat in seven riding days) and there is 60 km of dirt roads, Geofun has all the info. According to the professionals this is great biking terrain.

   5. Astronomy

   Mitzpe Ramon is the capital of star-gazing in Israel because of its clean air and low light pollution. Several amateur astronomers can show you the night sky but my favorite is Ira Mashevsky

   6. Snappling (aka. rapelling)

   Falling off cliffs with ropes, this is completely safe but not for the faint-hearted. The SAS and Navy Seals do it but you can do it also when you put yourself in the hands of Adam Sela

   7. Spice quarter

   A derelict industrial zone transformed into a funky artist colony complete with galleries, eateries, a brilliant bakery, soaps, clothing factory, second-hand clothing, visual arts, music venues, a pleasant low-pressure, bohemian vibe, you can just wander through observing, with your hands in your pockets.

   8. Food

   In this small burg there are at least six eateries for visitors to the town.  Bereshit, Vegan Xpress, HaHavit, HaKatzei, Incense and a row of fast food outlets down by Bank HaPoalim.

   9. Wineries

   There are six desert boutique wineries within a 45-minute drive from Mitzpe.  Closest is Nana where you can get a tour by the owner but only by appointment. Quite stunning.

   10.  Fauna

   Best known is the Alpaca Farm, a ten minute drive from the town. Wild mountain goats (and foxes by night) roam around the edges of the town and are not afraid of people. Herds of rare indigenous donkeys run free inside the makhtesh but inside the town is bio ramon, ideal for smaller children.