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Where to swim around our flat

 

This morning, I went into full reporter mode. I took one of the second hand bicycles we are keeping in our garage (old enough to be anti-theft proof but totally adequate for a leisurely ride along the promenade which, do I need to remind you, stretches from Rosh HaNikra to Shavei Tzion, a full 15 km of bliss).

I was going to go all the way up North, to Rosh HaNikra, stop at all the good spots to swim, take videos and then all the way down to Shavei Zion and back to the flat.
 
According to Google maps, it is a one and a half hour tour. But with all the stops, it took me two hours to go all the way to Rosh HaNikra and back. I had forgotten to pack some water, so when I reached the flat back, I decided to call it a day. My full report became a description of all the best places to swim NORTH of the flat.
 
I then went to the swimming pool, showered, ate my breakfast in front of the view, prepared the video which will be added to this post and I am currently typing my report on my phone, with a single finger. It just goes to show that even though the Southern report will have to wait for another day, there is absolutely no limit to my dedication.
But first, a little intro to help you decide which spot to chose.
 

How to decide which spot to chose?

 
Well it is very easy. Every morning when in Nahariya, we get up at the crack of dawn to go for a dip in the water. Unfortunately, getting into the sea right in front of the flat is not really an option. There are a lot of rocks and even if you’ve managed to make your way into the water, getting out might prove a bit more challenging than what you had bargained for. So in order to find a good spot, you will have to walk a bit, sometimes even bike or take your car.
On the other hand, I could have written that fortunately, you can’t get into the water right in front of the building, because it also means it is never crowded with people coming in all size, shape and colour wearing their swimming gowns. You know, the full/empty half of the glass…
 
We have already found quite a few spots we like and because we don’t want to go to the same one every day, our biggest pleasure is to wake up, take a look at the sea from the livingroom and according to the size of the waves, make an informed decision on where to go (apparently, this is common practice in Nahariya as my new friend Ida,80 something years old, and who has lived in the building for more than 30 years without missing a day of swimming, tells me her many friends who are not as fortunate as she is to leave right by the sea, call her every morning to get their full report on the heights of the waves!). So you see folks, this is definitely the way to do it!
 

Where to swim North of Krivine Guesthouse – the Annex on the Sea 

  • The religious separated beach

It is not particularly beloved but it has the advantage to be the closest supervised beach from the flat with shower/toilets facilities. It is open and supervised everyday between 8.00 and 18.00 except on Shabbat. It alternates between days for women and days for men. Outside of these hours, there is no lifeguard but the place is still open and the showers are working so you can go there with your better half.

 It is good if:

 – You are religious and/or don’t want to share your space with people the other sex and if you would rather be surrounded by a large fence so that no-one will see you in your swim gown.

 – You don’t want to go too far (but I personnaly think you can do much much better)

  • Island beach

The first spot we like is a 10 minutes walk from the flat. It doesn’t have a name so I have called it Island beach because it is tucked between two small rock Islands, which give you a sense of security. As you may know, the currents in the sea can be quite dangerous so this two islands offer some kind of protection.  
You can even swim all the way to the rocks and explore the ‘islands’, you’ll feel quite adventurous.
 
This spot is perfect if:
 
– the sea is calm (it is not a public beach and there is no lifeguard).
 
– you don’t want to walk too far
 
– you have shoes to go into the water as the first few meters have rocks (we keep some in the flat)
 
– you don’t like to share the sea as no-one ever swims there.
 
  • The pools right before Achziv

It is easy to spot them, they are always full of fishermen and right in front of the new Achziv building development. It takes about half an hour to walk there on the promenade.
 
This spot is perfect
 
– if the sea is a bit rough as the pools are completely protected
 
– if you have young children
 
– if you have shoes for the water (you know the drill, rocks and everything)
 
– If you are looking for a very photogenic place. I actually really recommend being there for sunset!
 
Chances are you won’t be on your own, especially weekends and afternoons in August but it is not crowded.
 
  • Achziv public beach, also called Banana beach

Right after the pools, the promenade (which by now is a narrow road) will take a turn right and you will immediately find yourself at the entrance to Achziv public beach.
Although it is fenced up, the entrance is free. As a public beach it has all the facilities (shower, toilets, bar, lifeguard on duty, chairs and parasols, water sports…)
 
This spot is good if
 
– you feel more secure having all the facilities
 
– you are going to spend a full day on the beach
 
– it seems to be a good spot for surfers
 
– you need activities (bar, jet ski, boat tours…)
 
– you enjoy having the abandoned village of Akhziv in the background (since I am in none of the above categories, I must say it is the only thing that makes it a good spot for me). This is definitely the most gorgeous beach in Israel.
 
– you don’t mind sharing the spot as it can get a bit crowded.
 
  • Achziv national park

This is becoming a bit far to walk (probably 45 minutes) so it is better to ride or even drive there, especially if it is hot.
This one comes with an entrance fee (about 35 sh per person). We went once and don’t intend to go again, although I suspect we were only underwhelmed because we might have missed something.
I expected the park to be better kept and also to be able to wander around the ruins of the abandoned village. From what I have seen, you can only get close to one building which is locked anyway. The beach is quite nice but a bit crowded. There is one pool that is really spectacular but after floating there for 10 minutes, I definitely felt I had enough.
If someone can tell me how to get to the village and if there are more pools that I have missed (I keep reading about swimming in pools full of antiquites!) I will definitely go back!
Actually, the entrance to the Ely Avivi – auto-proclaimed king of Achzivland – right next to the park, gives you access to the very same beach. IMHO, the 25 sh entrance fee are better spent than the fee to the national park as the museum is quite something (call before you come to make sure it is open). You get to know more about a real eccentric and to see all the archeological findings he kept (it still blows my mind to think that the Israel antiquities let him get away with it).
In conclusion, this spot might be excellent, but I would need someone to tell me exactly what I have missed and where to find it!
 
  • Betzet stretch

Go further maybe a kilometer or two on the promenade and you get to a long stretch of pristine sandy beach. It is part of the Betzet stretch as opposed to the Betzet public beach which is fenced off and has all the facilities. The part closer to Achziv is the most sauvage and beautiful.
On your right hand side, you will reach a large parking surrounded by trees. A path seems to be leading to a nice stroll in a little forest. We haven’t tried it (yet) but it is a good spot to park your car if you drove there. It is also a good landmark to know where to stop if you rode on a bicycle (about 30 minutes of a flat, easy, beautiful ride).
Camping is authorised there, so you might find another swimmer or two but it is mostly empty and paradisiac, especially when the sea is calm. It has a very special serenity to it.
Another point of interest is the Tosha Bakery (it’s on the main road but you can see it from the promenade). It is one of the well known patisseries in the area and although I personally don’t find it nearly as good as Orly Sitbon, it is still perfectly worth trying. And since you are passing it anyway, I would classify it as a first class offense if you were to pass it without stopping.
A bit further north, you will find one of the few enclosures created to try and protect the sea turtles. Every year, some volunteers collect all the eggs they can find and put them in enclosed nests so they can hatch without being snatched by predators. Between July and September, hundreds of baby turtles are being released into the sea and the volunteers – present mainly at night as this is when it all happens – will be happy to explain the whole process to you. You might also be lucky and witness some baby turtles making their big appearance.
 
It is perfect if: 
 
 – if the sea is completely calm
 
– you want to be on your own
 
– you want to see the turtles (July to September)
 
– Sorry, it is perfect, no ifs…
 
 
  • Betzet public beach

Another place with all the facilities. The beach itself doesn’t seem particularly inviting (lots of stones), but again, I am not a public beach fan so if you are, just check it, it might be your cup of tea.
 
  • Approaching Rosh HaNikra

I have seen a few people swim in different spots. I have never tried them. Maybe because I find the proximity of the warships unsettling (by then, you are almost touching the Lebanese border). But even if it is not for a swim, if you have come all this way on a bicycle, it is definitely worthwhile to carry on and go all the way to Rosh HaNikra. The scenary is really nice, you even have a few places to stop for an interesting viewpoint on the white cliff of Rosh HaNikra.
 

The perfect bicycle outing on a beautiful winter day

 
All in all, even if you don’t intend to swim, this whole bicycle ride on the promenade to Rosh HaNikra is a perfect outing. Definitely worth spending a few hours on it, especially on a nice winter day, when swimming is not an option.
 
 

Where to swim South of Krivine Guesthouse – the Annex on the Sea

  • The public beach in Nahariya

A 5 to 10 minutes walk on the promenade in the direction of the city will take you to the public beach of Nahariya where you will find all the usual facilities (lifeguards, shower, toilets, diving and boating club, ice cream vendor and even a pier for fishermen..).

You won’t find there your usual beach cafe, but it is only because it is so close to the center of the city and the busy Ge’aton boulevard that cafes and restaurants are everywhere around.

The public beach is all sand and is divided in three area.

 – Semi open to the waves area

The one closest to our flat is semi protected from the waves and is ideal when the sea is calm. It is not as busy as the main beach and you can still enjoy a bit of waves.

 – The main beach with it’s wave breaker

A few meters from it, facing the opposite direction is a beach completely protected by a wave breaker. This is where you will find all the Russian grand-mothers with their flowery bath caps, especially very early mornings. It is by far the busiest part of the beach and during the summer, it can be a bit overcrowded, especially in the evenings. But if you have young children, it is just perfect.

 – The completely open area 

Walk a bit further South for maybe two minutes and you will reach the third area with sand, showers and lifeguard. This one is totally open to the waves and mostly empty. But when the waves are high, this is the meting point of all the surfers in the area.

One thing that might like (or not) on this specific strip is it’s proximity to a row of beach cafes with their animation, food, bevarages and music.

 – Many public spaces around the beach

The whole area is surrounded by a plethora of public spaces, children and adults playgrounds, football, basketball, hockey fields, you name it. And when the evening comes, the place is bustling with activity, especially in the summer, of course. Outdoor yoga classes, free zumba and israeli folk dancing twice a week in season… You can also see how much Naharians like there promenade, be it on foot, bicycle, skateboard or rollerblades… They surely seem to enjoy it a lot.

 – The public beach in Shavei Tzion

To get to the next beach in Shavei Tzion, you will need our bicycles or a car unless you are up for an hour of walking.

The promenade stops about two hundred meters from the beach (a bit abruptly if you ask me, first time I went, I was taken by surprise by the very sudden end of the
asphalt path and the 6-7 centimeters gap between the asphalt and the sand. But you have been warned!)

On the last two hundred meters, you ride on a little hill full of vegetation (maybe not so much at the end of the summer when all the vegetation is burnt out by the sun, but in the winter or spring when it is luxuriant and green,
 it actually reminds me very much of Brittany which, as you must know, is by far the most beautiful area in France, there you have been warned). The hill might be a little too much for the bikes we keep in the flat, so I prefer to walk it. But it is absolutely charming, especially as it overlooks the Shavei Tzion beach. 

Once again, it has all the facilities you can expect from a public beach, including quite a bit of sea sports. it has the reputation of being particularly beautiful and a bit more exclusive. If you ask me, I prefer Akhziv Beach by far, but it might have to do with the fact the first (and so far last) time I went there to actually swim, the sea was really rough
and it was bringing all kind of rubbish, probably from Akko beach which is right on the other side of the bay. We were litterally swimming between empty bags of Bamba, the beloved Israeli snack.

Anyway, this is my personal trauma and I have been told that it is highly unusual. I am, of course, enclined to believe it since you just have to pronounce the name of Shavei Tzion beach to see some delight in the eyes of many Israelis. So I will make sure to go back there to experience it in better conditions. Therefore take notes: if you can spot some serious waves before leaving the flat, you already know that Shavei Tzion is NOT your spot for the day!

One excellent reason to try Shavey Tzion is to go to a place called Breakfast Club for… you can’t invent it… breakfast (although apparently, they also serve lunch).

My advice is to arrive early, right when they open as it is very popular (and for good reasons, the food is fresh and excellent) and it gets very busy. 

 
 
 
 
 
 

I was told that the hilly path starts again south of the beach and goes all the way to Akko. I hear it is a beautiful hiking/riding path but make sure you go there with proper riding gear… The bicycle we provide in the flat definitely won’t take you this far!

Author: Marion Krivine

French owner of Krivine Guesthouse in Midreshet Ben Gurion, together with my British husband John. A little piece of european greenery in the heart of the Negev Highlands, Israel. I have set out on this journey in order to provide our guests with the most accurate, up-to-date and comprehensive guide of the area.

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